Sunday, June 5, 2011
Poring Hot Springs
Here we are at Poring Hot Springs. Yesterday we had a magic last day's birding at Mt Kinabalu, walking the entire Mempening trail - which ascends very steeply, and precariously in places and takes you through some very tall forest with mossy plants all through it. Where it had been quiet bird-wise the day before it was all happening yesterday and we got the much sought after 'Whitehead's Trogon'and another highlight was a family party of inquisitive Mountain Wren-babblers which delighted us for a good 10-15 minutes while Sunda Cuckoos were calling near to us too. This morning we transferred to Poring Hot Springs, 40kms on from Kinabalu NP. The temperature here is a decidedly hot and sweaty change and we arrived around mid morning not expecting much bird action until late afternoon when temperatures would drop but we'fe been bowled over by the bird action today - the much sought after Banded Kingfisher was almost our first bird and then we came upon a large, shady fruiting tree that was teeming with various frugivores in the midday sun. Back for a quick lunch break and then out again to the 'Tropical gardens' adding Malaysian Hawk Cuckoo, Banded Broadbill, Rufous Woodpecker and Cinereous Bulbul to our list. We finished the afternoon with a soak in the hot sulphurous tubs to ease our aching muscles and then across the road to a local eatery for a nice dinner. On the way to the resort today we stopped to look at a flowering rafflesia flower - advertised by locals on a roadside sign for a small fee to go see it. Tomorrow we've a hot and sweaty climb before us up the Langanan Waterfall trail to try for the Blue-banded Pitta amongst others and then back to KK to catch the evening flight home.
Friday, June 3, 2011
Mt Kinabalu HQ
We've been enjoying walking the forest trails here at KK HQ - Silau Silau, Liwagu and Mempening trails. Although not teeming with birds, the habitat is gorgeous and the cool montane temperature makes walking a pleasure. Yesterday a mist descended out of nowhere around mid afternoon and rather than clearing up, rain set in but this morning we awoke to a beautiful view of Mt Kinabalu in front of our lodge and the sun appeared and stayed most of today. Our pattern is to go for an early hike before breakfast then another long hike after that, returning to our accommodation around mid afternoon to chill out the rest of the day, letting the birds come to us and giving Tom chance to take photos. Only negative comment is the prices here have risen but the service has definately gone down. Breakfast runs from 7 to 11 but when Tom and I get there around 10am all that's left is usually lukewarm and today they'd run out of milk for coffee and they don't seem to care all that much so thumbs down from that point of view as it's a very expwnsive place to stay. Thankfully the scenery and the forest trails compensate. Best birds today were Bornean Forktail, Bornean Whistling Thrush and Short-tailed Green Magpies. Tomorrow will be more of the same and then onto Poring Hot Springs the day after.
Thursday, June 2, 2011
Snorkelling and Tabon Scrubfowls
Jesselton Hotel where we're staying in KK is nicely placed in that it's only a 5-10 min stroll to Jesselton wharf. There's lots of eateries around and a particularly nice chinese bakers and coffee shop next door. On my first day before my diving intro I'd taken a boat and ferried across to the islands of Mamutik and Sapi to snorkel off the beaches. Both islands also have good jungle trails and I was thrilled on that first day to find 2 Tabon scrubfowl on Sapi Island. Tom and I had read that our best chance for them would be the jogging trail on Manukan Island. Anyhow I had a great time on the islands and when Tom arrived from the UK we headed over to Manukan to get the Tabon Scrubfowls for him as they can only be found on the offshore islands now. We booked the ferry to Sapi too as a backup in case we didn't see them on Manukan which turned out to be a good job as we dipped on the jogging trail and looked lik we would again that afternoon on Sapi but thankfully 10 minutes before the ferry left for the mainland the scrubfowls did make an appearance for Tom at the same spot I'd first seen them. It was my birthday and I found a lovely coral garden while snorkelling in a new spot on Sapi and had several new fish for me so it was a super day and finished up well with a nice meal back at Jesselton. Next stop Kinabalu Mountain!
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